Southeast Asia - Week of April 23: Sri Lanka - Week 1

Sri Lankan Airlines safely flew me to Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport on Sunday, April 23. I had breakfast in the business lounge prior to departing. 

Fun shapes with fruit - Bangkok lounge

Ready for an adventure

Breakfast for champions

I had pre-arranged for taxi ride from airport to hotel. Always great to see your name on a small signboard as you are exiting the baggage area. By end of 40 minute ride, Mahi, my taxi driver, had invited me to his home should I be in the Galle area, about 100+ km south of Colombo, during my visit. We exchanged contact info so we could stay connected through WhatsApp. In fact, he set up a hotspot on his phone so I could connect with him. Note to self: get a local SIM card at the airport if you are planning to be in the country an extended period. 

Colombo

I stayed for three nights at Colombo Lakeside - a four star hotel in the city's core - close to the Colombo Fort central train station. Hotel was fabulous. Great room/outdoor pool, amazing breakfast featuring multiple ethnic food choices. I deferred to starting my Sri Lankan menu choices including different types of curry, milk rice and roti.

Sunday evening I was invited to a home cooked dinner at Lakshi's (Sajee's sister) home. The family was kind enough to pick me up and drop me off after the meal. My first Sri Lankan meal was a wonderful home cooked meal complete with appetizers, wine and dessert (curd with a sweet delight similar to in taste and colour to maple syrup). A number of new types of very delicious food to taste. What a blessed way to start my adventure in my new country for the next several weeks. 

During the meal I revealed my issue with getting my TD debit card delivered to Sri Lanka. The hotel employee checking in me into the hotel advised they were unable to receive a package if I had already departed. My best guess was the package would be delivered on Thursday at the earliest. Lakshi volunteered having the package delivered to her home as someone was always there. My blessings continue to flow. I confirmed Lakshi's address with Pang (Bangkok hotel - Adelphi Grande front desk angel) on Monday.

Monday was an unexpectedly eventful day. I wanted to exchange some Canadian dollars I had for rupees given I was still without my debit card. In my morning travels I was approached by two different men who seemed keenly interested in my welfare. They were both quick to find something in common/increase their familiarity with me to, in my mind, ease your anxiety/drop your guard. The first guy, who claimed to work at a nearby Hilton, wanted to take me to the black market to exchange money (better rates). Suddenly a tuk tuk (three wheel vehicle/taxi that can seat up to three people) appeared which he wanted me to join him. I declined the offer. A very short time later, the second guy appeared who suggested there was a special parade featuring elephants happening nearby. He claimed to be a teacher and his wife was a doctor. I was initially interested, however quickly decided something was amiss when he couldn't confirm our destination with any clarity. I bid him goodbye. In my haste to get back on track to exchange money, I stumbled on a section of the sidewalk where paving stones were missing. Opened a large abrasion below my knee that would need attention. Unfortunately I was unsuccessful in my morning attempt to exchange cash as my HSBC destination was a commercial banking centre. 

After returning to the hotel to attend to my injury (clean with alcohol and a couple 'plasters' - new word for bandaids) I was off to the next HSBC site in what appeared to be an upscale shopping plaza (Galle Face) I identified near the hotel. Unfortunately, Google Maps was inaccurate, as the proposed HSBC site was non-existent. I had a nice conversation with a young woman who thought I might be waiting for a tuk tuk and suggested if that was the case that I needed to be outside as opposed to sitting in the lower level of this shopping plaza. Another example, more sincere this time, about a Sri Lankan trying to be helpful. As Galle Face was directly facing the Indian Ocean, I decided to go for a walk on the ocean. Yup, mighty warm at 1:30 pm walking in the sun with a light breeze. 

Ocean walk by Galle Face

On my way back to the hotel I met the third guy who wanted to help me enjoy Colombo. When I mentioned I was staying at a Cinnamon property, wasn't it a 'coincidence' that he worked at a Cinnamon property. His desire was to take me to a temple for a special ceremony happening at 2 pm. And, out of the blue, a tuk tuk appeared which he wanted me to get into so we could go the the temple together. I graciously declined once again; something about getting in a vehicle with a complete stranger in a foreign country.  

Given my lack of success with finding a convenient HSBC location, I checked with Thomas Cooke and Bank of Ceylon for their exchange rates. Somewhat disappointed with their proposed exchange rates, I concluded I had invested significant time in this activity. Next stop was People's Bank (Sri Lanka's national bank) which was on the way back to the hotel. Another interesting experience. During the exchange transaction, the supervisor asked me about what I did for a living and about Canada. He wanted my contact info so we could connect through WhatsApp (no connection as of yet). BTW - the exchange rate I received in this transaction was the best of the three places I had rates from.

I had one last man who wanted to help me who appeared later in the day. While I was walking from a local supermarket where I was in an unsuccessful pursuit of energy bars (emergency food source), I went in a small convenience store by the supermarket to see the store carried bars. No success. However the guy I spoke with shared his business card with me and advised that if I ever needed help he would be more than happy to help out. He was the secretary to a former Sri Lankan member of government. Google revealed his boss had been the finance minister, among many government roles, and had spent time in jail as he was accused of corruption. He was the minister in charge when the Sri Lankan government signed over the port development the Chinese had been funding as part of their Belt and Road global initiative to the Chinese government when Sri Lanka was unable to make their payments. 

Train Travel/Travel Logistics

Throughout the remaining days I visited the central train station which was in walking distance from the hotel. I had booked a train ticket to Hatton, the train station I would need to get off at to climb Adam's Peak later in the week. The impetus to climb the peak early in my trip was knowing that the walk to the Peak would be shutting down for the season on May 5 - Buddha's birthday (Vesak). 

While you can book your ticket online, you need to go to the station and have the ticket printed off for presentation to the train conductor. I also booked a return train trip to Galle as I wanted to visit the Galle Fort and take advantage of my taxi driver's kind offer to meet his family and have tea. Accommodations were also on the radar. Needed a hotel for my Adam's Peak adventure (Wednesday & Thursday night) along with a night's stay Friday night in Colombo as Lakshi had kindly offered to deliver my debit card on Saturday morning (that was arriving during the week from Bangkok). I also needed a hotel for a couple nights stay in Galle.  

Adam's Peak/Sri Pada (Adam's Peak info)

I was off to Colombo Fort train station on Wednesday afternoon (April 26) to travel to Hatton. The train departed about 12:40 pm with an expected arrival time around 8 pm. As I'll learn traveling in Sri Lanka the travel time are somewhat disportioncate to the distances being traveled. Journeys are measured in duration as opposed to distance. As luck would have it, the person sitting next to me on the train became my new friend. TK, who was originally from Sri Lanka, was now living in Melbourne with his wife teaching at a local university. He was visiting with his parents for a month or so and was making his regular pilgrimage to Adam's Peak. TK was kind enough to share loads of info about Sri Lanka, rice paddies (as we were passing through the paddies) and Adams Peak. He was also kind enough to share the home made sandwiches his mother had prepared for him. All very tasting. He was staying closer to the Peak that I was so we discussed the possibility of connecting on the Peak in the morning. TK was vigilant for keeping track where we need to get off the train. Station announcements are absent. On the positive side, there are vendors that get on the train to sell you all types of food, coffee and tea. 

Mountain View Bungalow was my new home for the next two nights. Where possible, I was booking my accommodation through Booking.com. After a short tuk tuk ride from the train station, I met Richard, the owner who let me into my new home. I had a learning from this two night stay - make sure you include 'private bathroom' as part of my search criteria. I had rented a place that had two separate bedrooms with a shared bathroom, kitchen and living area. A very large place. My good fortune was that I was the only person renting for the next two nights. Whew! 

Adam's Peak - Mountain View Bungalow

My objective in climbing Adam's Peak was to reach the top by dawn so I could witness the sunrise. What this means is setting off on the climb at about 2 am, in the dark. As I was about 30+ km from the base, I had arranged for, through Richard, for a tuk tuk driver (Rojan) to get me to the base and stick around to drive me back once I descended. I got a somewhat late start at 2:30 am. I was initially concerned I was on the right path because I met people who were coming down the path instead of going up. I learned from a small group I stopped that the pilgrims had walked through the night - seeing a sunrise was unimportant. Reassured, I recommitted to my climb. I now appreciate what 5,500 steps uphill actually means. It was tough going for me. Just when I thought I was close to the top, there were even more steps and those steps were steeper than the ones I just finished climbing. A few things kept me going. First, I met a group of three young Sri Lankan women who 'adopted' me on the way up. They had their way of encouraging me, along with one of their friends who was having an equally challenging time. Second, there were older people than me, people who were visibly had walking challenges who were climbing. I would be terribly disappointed in myself if I failed to reach the top when all these other people who had greater obstacles would make the ascent. Finally, my good friend Sajee had made the climb so I was determined to do the same. 

Meet Rojan - Tuk Tuk driver

Fortunately the path is lit during the night. There are different concessions available along the route so you can get hot food and drinks if you want. On May 6, after Vesak celebrations, the lights are turned off and the concessions are closed. The wet season will begin and the pilgrims will disappear.

Yes, I made my way to the top. I had mixed fortune with regard to the sunrise. The eastern skies were cloudy at sunrise so we had a muted sun breaking the horizon. While I was late in getting to the top for the sunrise, I was able to get a couple photos from my location on the way up. Changed my t-shirt at the top and started my way down. Going down, while a little easier, was equally challenging. Talk about rubbery and sore legs. Had to take multiple breaks on the way down. Interestingly, I did meet up with TK on the way down. He did reach the top for sunrise. He thoughtfully shared some of his water with electrolytes with me. Kindness surrounds me. I should mention a number of people, in both directions. would share their blessings with me. Truly a spiritual experience. 

Adam's Peak sunrise

Adam's Peak - up close and personal

On the way down, I also met a group of four people who I chatted with. They ended up sharing my journey by highlighting the great beaches in the Tangalle area on the southern coast. I added that destination to my journey. And that's how I sometimes determine my destinations. 

I was so happy to find my tuk tuk driver - around 10:30 am. Another example of good fortune blessing me. I missed a turn on the way back to my starting point. I had asked a couple guys walking down to confirm where the start was. Turned out they had a different starting point. Luckily, my tuk tuk driver happened to be in the same area where I was walking. So happy to get to sit down for an extended period. Would take days for me to fully recover! Spent the afternoon recovering from the lack of sleep and my very tired legs. Skipped lunch entirely - no energy to eat. 

Dream catcher for sale - Hatton Restaurant

I had dinner at a restaurant a short distance from the bungalow. Great meal - chicken kottu. Interesting conversation with the owner - learned more about the impact of Sri Lanka's financial crisis on his family and his business. Was very discouraging for him. 

Back to Colombo

Return train trip departed at 7:15 am. Met up with TK in the train station. After a little drama about what track we need to be on, we were off to Colombo. Beautiful scenery. Area is full of tea plantations, waterfalls and lush forest. Transitions to rice paddies as you get closer to Colombo and to lower elevation.

Spent Friday night in Colombo at Cinnamon Red - a sister hotel to Cinnamon Lakeside (Lakeside was full). Great room, amazing views of Colombo's night skyline and a reasonable breakfast (scaled down version from the Lakeside experience). 

Saturday morning was the big banking package day. Lakshi and her family delivered the package with the debit card to my hotel on Saturday morning. What a thoughtful and kind family! Lakshi also waited until I opened the package to ensure I received what I was expecting. Everything was in order! Next step - find an ATM to confirm I can withdraw cash. Happy to report all worked just fine. I always have a little trepidation when I put my card in an ATM. What if it doesn't work? What if the ATM keeps the card? 

BNS Banking Update

As I mentioned last week, I discovered that no action had been taken to replace the debit card for my business account. The key challenge I was trying to address was to have online access to my account as opposed to using the debit card to withdraw funds (while that would be a great option to have). I dutifully contacted the Customer Contact Centre (for small business) on the morning of Monday, April 24. I learned from the Contact Center agent that the branch needed to be involved in the transaction; the branch was responsible for issuing the new card; then the Contact Centre could have the card shipped to me. The agent sent an email to the branch small business advisor with a copy to the branch manager. A new adventure was about to unfold that would continue for a few weeks. I followed up with the small business advisor twice during the week for a status update after my initial contact with the advisor. I got an out of office bounce back on my second follow-up message. He was away until the following week so nothing was going to happen. I've now been without account access since April 16. 

In retrospect, as I am writing this after the fact, I made a tactical error when speaking with the Contact Centre agent. His records indicated I was a Private Banking client so he wanted to get in touch with my Private Banker to order the card. I advised that my days as a Private Banking client were long past. As you will learn, as I did through this adventure, my non-existent Private Banking relationship would be  key in getting a debit card to me. Stay tuned - more details to come in the weeks ahead. 

Jury Duty 

I received a letter advising that I was required to show up in Brampton on May 10 for jury selection. I sent a deferral request on Thursday advising the court I was out of the country on Thursday. I had to May 4th to request a deferral. Now I would have to wait for the court's response. Fingers crossed.

Off to Galle

Saturday afternoon was back to Colombo Fort for my 2 - 3 hour train ride to Galle. I should mention I book a 1st class seat, if available, on the train. The big benefit is A/C. When I arrived in Galle I had intended to take a tuk tuk to my hotel (Deltora Villa), about 1.5 km from the train station. Should be a simple exercise, right? Well, I decided to make things more difficult for myself than necessary. The whole process to negotiate a price was something I needed to learn. Anyhow, I got indignant about the driver's proposed price and lack of knowledge of where I was going. I then decided I should walk the distance with my suitcase. Quite the little episode and walk I had. This would be the last time I would take such a foolish course of action. 

My new accommodation was great. I was served a refreshing welcome drink (same experience as at the Lakeside). Room had private bathroom, small swimming pool and a great evening meal served on the upper terrace. I was comfortable and ready for Sunday's adventures - visiting Fort Galle and visiting with the taxi driver and his family.