Southeast Asia - Week of July 2: Philippines Week 4

Welcome to Philippines Week 4 (traveling for 13 weeks). I start the week in Manila, then fly to Dumaguete for two nights, take a ferry to the island of Siquijor for three nights and, on Saturday morning, take a ferry to Tagibalaran for a return visit to Ananyana Resort on Doljo beach.

It's worth noting that English, in the spoken word, menus and on signage, is prevalent through the areas I have traveled to. Communicating has been so simple irrespective of where I have been. Hearing the Philippine people speak to each other is the constant reminder that I am visiting in a different country!

Travel update

Please note I've had to start a new map as I reached the limit in the number of layers (different travel segments) I'm allowed to add. Apologies for the inconvenience this may cause you. 

Philippines Travel Map - Part 1

Philippines Travel Map - Part 2

Manila - Intramuros

I had two reasons for visiting Manila: 1) actually say I visit the Philippine capital and, 2) visit Intramuros - something about the fort and architecture interested me. As I mentioned in last week's blog, I had considerable angst about my personal safety to walk about Manila given the two people I spoke with in Coron. In all my angst I forgot that I had visited Mexico City several times which is a city that can be truly dangerous. Like every city you visit, you need to be careful of where you go, watch out for picket pocketers/scams, conscious of the risk associated with local taxis and being out at night. 

Happy to report I successfully walked the round trip to Intramuros from my hotel (Herald Suites Polaris) - about 8 km in each direction. I went through a series of different types of neighbourhoods in my Sunday morning walk. While I drew some looks, I was pretty much ignored most of the way. I did get extra attention closer to Intramuros from tricycle operators who wanted to give me a tour. 

I've provided the following link should you want more context about this area - Intramuros - Background info

Manila Cathedral

Sunday mass

Chapel within the cathedral

Fort Santiago

The Fort is a short walk from the Cathedral. Small entrance fee (75 pesos) to gain access - seniors discount of 25 pesos. Current exchange rate - 40 pesos to 1 Canadian dollar. 

The following photos are from with the Fort complex. 

Final resting place of 600 Filipinos and Americas
who were victims of atrocities during Feb 1945.

Entrance to Fort complex

Food for Thought

Starbucks mug - My brother Jim collects Starbucks
mugs from different countries. I'm an active contributor
to his collection!

Saw this sign on my return trip - thought
this simple test was well worth remembering
(and sharing)!

Finding a bakery in the Philippines has been one
of the easiest tasks ever. They are everywhere!

Dumagette

Dumaguette was on my radar for a couple reasons:

1. First appeared when I was searching for Starbucks location to purchase a mug for my brother. This city of 125,000 in the province of Negros Oriental showed up in my Starbucks search results in Google maps - felt like a real oddity in comparison to the overall results. Discovered the city has four universities and is becoming a common destination for ex-pats resettling in the Philippines. 
2. Was the fact a ferry ran from its port to the island of Siquijor where I was going for more beach time. I had learned about Siquijor from a fellow guest at Ananyana Resort. 

I believe, based on my experience, you can experience the city fully in a day's visit; two nights was being generous. I did stay at a very interesting hotel, The Unwnd Boutique, which was a new place with all the latest amenities and a great breakfast.

I did meet Chris and Lucy who were on a week long date as they had left their daughter with Lucy's mom while they had their first holiday on their own. I'm most appreciative of Chris opening the conversation as we were having our respective dinners. Chris is a teacher at an international school in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). Chris shared considerable information about working with international schools in Southeast Asia. He had worked in India and Thailand before moving to Vietnam. After Chris and Lucy recounted their trials and tribulations getting from India to Vietnam during Covid so Chris could start a new two year teaching contract, I was most thankful for how relatively simple the Canadian Covid experience was. Because Chris is British and Lucy is Filipino repatriation to a specific country together was impossible because they did not qualify for repatriation in their respective home countries. They solved their issue by flying to Maldives for a month, then flying to the United Arab Emirates for the next month, then they flew to Vietnam where they spent the equivalent of a month in quarantine with 30 minutes outside their room daily. While outside their room for their daily exercise, Chris and Lucy were separated for some reason in spite of living together! I also had a chance to share my experiences at the Ananyana Resort as they were looking for a place to stay while in Panglao.

BTW - I did find several bake shops on Dumaguete. My bad, I forgot to take a photo of the bake shop I made a purchase at! 

Campanario De Dumaguete

Campanario De Dumaguete

St. Catherine of Alexandria Cathedral

Oceanjet Fast Ferry to Siquijor - 40 minute ride 
over quiet seas!

Siquijor

So, every adventure needs something unexpected to happen, right? The Siquijor unexpected event was learning the owner of where I was staying (Gapnod Guesthouse) has overbooked the two beachfront units for my first night so I'd be staying in a similar unit behind the beachfront unit I was supposed to be in. Unexpected, however far short of being a disaster. His solution was to discount my first night and move me into the beachfront unit for the last two nights. 

I'm still in the midst of understanding how these three nights fit into my overall experience. I am sure I will appreciate the true benefit as time elapses. Certainly I would avoid returning to Gapnod. The guesthouse stay was unpleasant. The units are close to a busy road, lots of dogs barking and roosters crowing, loud music from nearby resorts and people talking through the night on the adjacent vacant property. Restless nights. 

On the plus side:

• I was provided access to my room just after arriving at the guesthouse - around 9:30 am.; well before the official check-in time. While I was somewhat unhappy about snafu on the first night arrangements, I was appreciative to have access to my room and being able to settle in before going to explore my new neighbourhood. 
• I had a two amazing dinners - a sizzling seafood feast and stuffed squid with mango sauce. As far as the third meal - lesson learned for when ordering calamari in the Philippines as it appears to be served with a breaded coating. Best to order squid if you want to have a grilled version and avoid the extra calories.
• Found two bakeries that were about 500 meters apart with different goodies. I was able to satisfy my love of cinnamon at the Island Pride bakery. They offered a cinnamon loaf for 40 pesos! I also selected a variety of different pastries - all in the name of experimentation, of course. 
• My tricycle driver who drove me to the ferry on Saturday morning shared the kindest and most unexpected send-off ever. After helping me with getting my luggage, he took the time to thank me for coming to the Philippines and for spending time on Siquijor. He was thankful I chose to spend time in his country. He wished me continued safe travels as well as he looked forward to my return visit. Wow! Talk about having life put into perspective
• Back story - I had met the driver on my first day and made arrangements for him to drive me to the ferry on Saturday morning. I failed to get any contact details. On Saturday morning, I was blessed to have the owner around as it appeared the driver might have forgotten his committed. As fate would have it, as I described what I knew about where the driver lived, the owner actually knew who I was talking about and had his contact info. He gave the driver a call, and voila, the driver appeared shortly thereafter. 

Beach view from my balcony

Gapnod Guesthouse - I had the upper unit.

Sunsets

I will remember Siquijor for the most spectacular sunsets as the photos below bear witness to. 

Meals

I had a special treat in store for me when I asked the Unwnd Boutique staff for a box breakfast in lieu of missing my paid breakfast because I had to be at the ferry terminal prior to breakfast being served. I was blessed to be provided with the sandwich below along with fresh watermelon. The universe is truly benevolent!

Breakfast - Fried egg with Spam

Sizzling Mixed Seafood

Stuffed Squid with mango sauce

Sweet Tooth Satisfied

Home of the best cinnamon bread in the world

Torta was divine

Something New

This cemetery caught my attention on my walk. The vaults are located across the road from each other. Something new and different in my experience I thought was noteworthy. 

 

Goodbye Siquijor

Saturday's morning sky as I was leaving Siquijor

Return to Ananyana Resort - Panglao

I decided to treat myself with a return visit to be with my Ananyana family for two nights. What a treat it was going to be - all thanks to Michelle's support. Thank goodness I arranged for a ride from the Tagbilaran Port to the resort (thanks to Michelle for helping me connect directly with Danny). The port was congested with ferry goers, people selling tours and tricycle rides. Within a few minutes of disembarking, I was on my way to the resort. I was greeted by Gelly on arrival, showered with a flower lei and Antony/Gelly took my luggage to my room.  I also enjoyed a welcome drink. Pearl, the manager was also onsite, so I had a chance to catch up with her as well. Every resort team member had a warm greeting and smile for me. What a great feeling! I was home again!

Oh, by the way, Michelle was thoughtful to assign my previous room (#1) to me for my second stay. Was so kind of her. I know from my travel experience how much more comfortable I am if I get the same room. I appreciate the extra effort for my comfort as there were numerous guests at the hotel this time. 

Sunsets

The stunning sunsets I experienced in Siquijor continued on Saturday evening on Doljo beach. Join me in enjoying the universe's magnificence on display. 

Meal

In speaking with Marve about potential dinner options, she suggested that I should have fish for my first dinner - an off the menu dinner item. The team bought the fish fresh on Saturday afternoon. The fish, along with the sweet and sour sauce, was mouth watering to look at. I ate the meal as slowly as possible to savour the taste! 

Sweet & Sour White Snapper

Next Week

I'm taking the ferry to Cebu on Monday afternoon for two nights in Cebu. I fly to Kuala Lumpur on Wednesday afternoon for a four night stay at the Traders hotel (a Shangri-La hotel) with a view of the Petronas Twin Towers (an iconic KL landmark). I will also doing a day trip to Melacca during the stay.